Tomatoes have
been a garden staple for generations of gardeners and vegetable or
fruit aficionados alike. Whether eaten raw, sprinkled with salt, green
and fried, or pureed into a luscious sauce, tomatoes are a favorite for
a myriad of reasons, one being, that with so many varieties, they are
one of the easiest and prodigious veggies to grow, not to mention one
of the most delicious. Tomatoes are also one of the best vegetables to
eat for your health, offering many benefits.
Varieties
No matter if you live in the dry, desert wastes,
or in the snowcapped northern climes, there is a tomato variety for
you! If you live in the cooler, shorter season climates, you'll want to
choose an early ripening tomato, so you can get them off the vine and
onto your table before the first frost. Some examples are: Stupice,
Maria Dondera's Early, and Earlie Annie. Most cherry varieties also
come in quite early. For those in the warmer, mid season areas, try:
Abraham Lincoln, Red Brandywine, Dona, Eva Purple Ball, Peron
Sprayless, and Marglobe. In the southwest and extended growing season
areas, you can use: Any of the beefsteak varieties such as, Pink
Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Aunt Ginny's Purple, or Cherokee Purple.
Check with your local nursery for varieties specifically suited to your
climate. The Garden Web online also offers a great group especially
devoted to just tomatoes!
Starting from Seed
Tomatoes are easily nurtured from seed to
seedling, to transplanted garden resident, with some preplanning and
general tomato plant knowledge. You can start seeds in almost any
sterile, well draining container, from peat pots, to small seedling
six-packs, to cleaned yogurt containers or halved milk cartons. I like
to use styrofoam egg cartons. You can start 12-18 different varieties
in a very small space. You can also start them directly in the garden,
but starting them indoors gives you a head start on the season, AND
helps protect the vulnerable seedlings from disease, insects and
weather damage until they are old enough to better withstand these
elements on their own. Using, sterile, well-draining SOILESS starting
mix, plant your seeds two or three to a hole, and prepare to weed one
or two out if all three germinate. Water them just enough to keep the
seeds damp, but do NOT over water once they begin to sprout. You can
place your containers in a plastic bag to retain moisture and create a
green house effect, but the plastic should not touch the soil surface
and sometimes this allows mildew to form on the planting medium. As
soon as you see seedlings emerging, remove the plastic.
Adequate light and
warmth is essential for good growth and strong stems, so make sure to
place your pots either under a grow light indoors, or in a window where
they will get at least 6 to 8 hours of sun/lamp light daily. After your
seedlings have developed at least two full sets of leaves, and are
approximately 3 to 4 inches high, it's time to transplant to a larger
pot. Remove the seedlings from their pots carefully, using a knife, and
set them in their new pot. Gently tamp the soil around the seedlings
and water. After about a week, fertilize lightly. Kelp and seaweed make
excellent organic foods, as does diluted fish emulsion. When the plants
have sturdy stems, healthy green foliage, and are approximately 6 to 10
inches tall, it's time to move them to the garden!
Hardening Your Transplants and Moving Them to Their Final Home
Hardening off prepares your pampered tomato plants for life outdoors.
You begin by stopping fertilization, and reducing their water a few
days before hardening off. Set the plants outside for few hours a day
in indirect sunlight, like on a patio, exposing them to gentle breezes
and cooler temperatures. Each day, increase the time by an hour or two,
until you leave them out over night. Remember to still water them
properly.
Into the Garden
Work the intended site for
your tomatoes well, making sure they will be in a well-drained area of
your garden. To get your plants off to a good start, after digging your
hole, add a small amount of granular fertilizer, or if you prefer
organic methods, manure or compost to the bottom of the hole. Be sure
to soak your transplants before putting them into the garden, and it is
always best to transplant on a cloudy or slightly overcast day.
Transplant the
tomatoes up to their first true leaves, and bury the rest of the stem
so it will put out roots to strengthen and further support the young
plant. Back fill the whole with compost or potting soil, then water
deeply. Be sure to space the plants 20 to 34 inches apart, depending on
whether you stake them or intend to let them sprawl. Foliar feeding
every two to three weeks with a mixture of kelp and fish emulsion is a
fantastic plant booster, and also helps plants develop more disease
tolerance.
From Planting to Table
Depending on your variety, you
can have red, juicy prizes on your table in under 85 days. Once
established, most tomato plants, barring disease, will continue to
thrive and produce as long as they receive enough sunlight and adequate
water, without a lot of toil and strain on the part of the gardener.
Tomato
Growing Tips
1. Fertilize the adult
plants once every 4 to 6 weeks, or according to package directions.
2. Watering at the
roots or base of the plants instead of onto the leaves helps reduce the
risk of disease and bacteria.
3. Water early in the
day for the same reason.
4. Mulching helps
retain moisture.
5. Use shade netting
for growing tomatoes in the desert southwest or hot climates to avoid
suncald on the fruits.
6. Check for tomato
horn worms regularly, as they can decimate a plant in days.
7. Don't smoke in the
garden - as it can infect plants with tobacco mosaic virus.
8. During heavy winds,
cover young plants with milk cartons or pots
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Marianna's Heirlooms
1955 CCC RD.
Dickson TN. 37055.